Elsevier S & T

Wind Generated Ocean Waves

Young, I.R.

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Table of contents
  • Cover
  • Wind Generated Ocean Wavesiii
  • Copyright Pageiv
  • Contentsvii
  • List of Major Symbolsxiii
  • Chapter 1. Introduction1
  • Chapter 2. Wave Theory3
  • 2.1 Introduction3
  • 2.2 Small Amplitude or Linear Theory3
  • 2.3 Wave Transformation14
  • 2.4 Limitations of Linear Wave Theory19
  • 2.5 Spectral Representation of Waves20
  • Chapter 3. Stochastic Properties of Ocean Waves25
  • 3.1 Introduction25
  • 3.2 Probability Distribution of Wave Heights25
  • 3.3 Global Distribution of Wave Properties28
  • 3.4 Limitations of Global Statistics39
  • Chapter 4. Physical Mechanisms of Wave Evolution41
  • 4.1 Introduction41
  • 4.2 Radiative Transfer Equation42
  • 4.3 Atmospheric Input, Sin45
  • 4.4 Nonlinear Quadruplet Interactions, Snl62
  • 4.5 White-Cap Dissipation, Sds77
  • 4.6 The Spectral Balance80
  • Chapter 5. Fetch and Duration Limited Growth83
  • 5.1 Introduction83
  • 5.2 Similarity Theory and Dimensionless Scaling84
  • 5.3 Growth Curves for Energy and Peak Frequency85
  • 5.4 One-Dimensional Spectrum112
  • 5.5 Directional Spreading125
  • Chapter 6. Non-stationary Wind Fields133
  • 6.1 Introduction133
  • 6.2 The Interaction of Swell and Wind Sea133
  • 6.3 Rapid Change in Wind Speed134
  • 6.4 Rapid Change in Wind Direction140
  • 6.5 Hurricane Wind and Wave Fields144
  • Chapter 7. Finite Depth Effects161
  • 7.1 Introduction161
  • 7.2 Physical Processes162
  • 7.3 Finite Depth Growth Curves187
  • 7.4 Finite Depth One-dimensional Spectra194
  • 7.5 Finite Depth Directional Spreading199
  • Chapter 8. Numerical Modelling of Waves203
  • 8.1 Introduction203
  • 8.2 Phase Resolving Models205
  • 8.3 Phase Averaging Models207
  • 8.4 Source Term Representation208
  • 8.5 Computational Aspects213
  • 8.6 The WAM Model218
  • 8.7 Data Assimilation224
  • Chapter 9. Ocean Wave Measurement227
  • 9.1 Introduction227
  • 9.2 In situ Methods228
  • 9.3 Data Analysis232
  • 9.4 Remote Sensing Techniques244
  • Bibliography255
  • Index283
Book details
  • Vendor Elsevier S & T
  • SKU 9780080433172
  • ISBN-13 9780080543802
  • Author Young, I.R.
  • Category Nature
  • Subject Weather

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The goals of wind wave research are relatively well defined: to be able to predict the wind wave field and its effect on the environment. That environment could be natural (beaches, the atmosphere etc.) or imposed by human endeavour (ports, harbours, coastal settlements etc.). Although the goals are similar, the specific requirements of these various fields differ considerably.

This book attempts to summarise the current state of this knowledge and to place this understanding into a common frame work. It attempts to take a balanced approach between the pragmatic engineering view of requiring a short term result and the scientific quest for detailed understanding. Thus, it attempts to provide a rigorous description of the physical processes involved as well as practical predictive tools.